Yer Outta Here!

I know our hours of operation have seemed inconsistent and non-committal in the past. Much of that has to do with our trying to find optimal hours of operation, coupled with the fact that we are a three person team, and two of us are trying to run the rest of the business plus raise our two and four year old boys. But now that the Tasting Lounge has been open for just over a year we fell like we are hitting the balance, so we decided to abandon the wishy-washy “noon to close” and firm up our hours. Going forward this summer we will be open at 11:30 daily, closing at 6 on Sunday and Monday and 8:30 Wednesday to Saturday. We will remain “by appointment only” on Tuesdays.

The closing times probably seem early to some. But, a few Friday nights ago I had to “refuse service” to two gentleman who came into the Tasting Lounge around 9:30. The first clue that things were amiss was when one of them threw money at me and said, “Just give me a bottle of some sh$t red wine,” to which I responded, “I’m sorry but we don’t have any sh$t red wine here.”

They then seated themselves in the front window and I sat next to one of them and explained to them that I was not comfortable serving them as they had obviously had a great deal to drink before coming here and that I was going to have to ask them to leave. And one fellow said, “Oh, well, don’t you speak so nicely! Aren’t you just soooo polite.” Perhaps they would have felt more comfortable if I had begun swearing and threatening them, but I get the feeling that no matter what I would have said or how I would have approached it, these guys were hoping to cause a scene.

Then they started on the whole, “We’re just working guys, trying to relax after a hard day,” and then made some vague accusations that if diners from Deep were to want some wine I would welcome them with open arms. As I continued to herd them out the door I explained that if some patrons from Deep came into that Tasting Room I would be more than happy to serve them unless they, too, were visibly intoxicated in which case I would also ask them to leave. Then came the “rich a$$h*les” comments as they continued down the street.

Ironically, those two guys probably have more money at their disposal than Scott and I do. We haven’t gotten a paycheck in almost two years and we’ve poured not only our hearts and souls into Volcano Vineyards, but all of our savings as well (not to mention mounds of debt). That particular day I started working at 5 a.m. and it was after 9:30 p.m. that I threw them out. This year Scott and I have had a total of five days off. So we don’t have a lot of patience for this attitude.

This is not the first time we have had some self-pitying, intoxicated individuals come into the Tasting Lounge. The common thread is that these incidents always happen after the sun goes down. So after discussing this most recent episode, Scott and I reminded ourselves that we are not a bar. This is the Tasting Lounge for our winery. We want folks to be able to join us for a glass of wine after work or before heading out to dinner and, most importantly, to be able to enjoy their time with us. Having us act as bouncers is not fun for anyone.

Show Me Something Different

We are back from St. Louis, travel weary and waaaay behind on things. But while we were there we checked out a few wineries in the Augusta, Missouri AVA, the first officially recognized appellation in the US. Missouri has a long tradition of winemaking and was the second largest producer in the country until prohibition. In fact, in 1873 a wine made from Missouri’s best known varietal, Norton, was chosen as the “Best Red Wine of All Nations” at an international competition in Vienna. Who knew wine competitions were a big thing even back then?

It was great to break out of the wine rut we’ve been in. They make no syrah, merlot, chardonnay or pinot noir or gris in Missouri. Here are some of their featured varietals:

Seyval Blanc: A French/American hybrid, this is a cold climate, early ripening grape with a high acidity that makes it a natural candidate for some residual sugar. The resulting wine is crisp and food friendly, a low-intensity wine that is great on those hot and humid afternoons the Mid-West is famous for.

Chardonnel: A cross between chardonnay and seyval blanc, it is a late-ripening, cold-climate hardy grape. All the chardonnels we tasted had gone through malolactic fermentation and had lots of oak time, so try to guess what I though of them….

Vidal Blanc: Floral and fruity, this is another high acidity wine that can take some residual sugar. I thought it consistently had richer fruit flavors and a bit more depth than the seyval blanc. We brought some of this home with us.

Norton: The king of Missouri red varietals, although Virginia is aggressively promoting this grape as well. Norton is thought to be the same grape as Cynthiana – the differences usually come from the wine’s style. Nortons are comparable to cab sauv, although much earthier with a notable spice and a definitely “grape-eee-ness” that is the typical sign a grape is native to North America (although they suspect Norton is most likely a hybrid). It is definitely a great red when you want something bold and different.

Chambourcin: Nouveau in style, this is a much lighter red, fruity and light. Another cold-hardy varietal that ripens late and thrives in humid conditions. This one has been confirmed a French/American hybrid, so you see, we can do great stuff with the French after all. We grabbed some blends of Norton and Chambourcin as souvenirs. Yum!

Off-the-Beaten-Path varietals are the next big thing in wines, folks, so jump right in and give these wines a try!

Coming Attractions

Thanks to everyone who popped by the Tasting Lounge to try the 2005s and the finalists from Scott’s 2005 Lava Red Blend trials. We appreciate the feedback!

For the blend, votes were evenly split for the most part, although a slight edge went to the 75% merlot 25% syrah version, which is the one Scott ultimately decided to go with. The 2005 Lava Red Blend will be lighter on the oak than the 2004, each wine having spent only 16 months in 25% new French oak. I know you oak lovers will be disappointed, but we’re sure you’ll appreciate the true fruit you can taste when there is no oak in your way. Yum!

And, although we are sold out of the 2004 Merlot, we are probably going to hold off on releasing the 2005s until Wine by the River which is happening the first weekend in October this year, I believe. We were hoping the 2005 Merlot would be magically ready to go once the 2004 was gone, but it needs a few more months in the bottle to add a bit of refinement. Wines are like little kids – they change drastically during those first three years, then the development levels off a bit – we are going to hold the wines until their evolution has slowed down. In the meantime, for you die-hard Merlot lovers, we now have Zerba Cellars’ Merlot in the Tasting Room.

Menu for July 12 Winemaker's Dinner

First Course – Blue Cheese Stuffed Figs Wrapped in Proscuitto
Volcano Vineyards 2005 Viognier - Mendocino
Our favorite cheese and wine paring: viognier and blue cheese. The acids of the Viognier balance the creaminess of the cheese, the fruitiness of the wine complements the blue’s strong flavors.

Second Course – Tri-tip and Wild Mushroom Salad with a Red Wine Vinaigrette
Volcano Vineyards 2004 Red Blend – Rogue Valley
With 50% Merlot, 48% Syrah and 2% Viognier, this wine accents foods rich in Umami (the savory taste), like beef and mushrooms. The wine also has a richness from 24 months in American oak which balances out the tangy vinaigrette.

Third Course – Oven Roasted Kalua Pulled Pork
Volcano Vineyards Syrah 2004 - Rogue Valley
We just got the review back on our Syrah from Wine Press Northwest. They rated it “Outstanding!” which is their higest rating. Syrah traditionally pairs well with pork, thanks to its rich blueberry flavors. Since our Syrah is light on the oak, you oak lovers will feel that void filled from the Kalua flavors in the sauce.

Dessert – Poached Pear Custard Tart
Harris Bridge Vineyards Three Roses Dessert Wine – Willamette Valley
A perfect, light, summer dessert paired with this luscious rosé dessert wine from Harris Bridge. Have you ever had a rosé dessert wine before? Aren’t you curious??? Harris Bridge uses an Ice Wine method for their production, waiting until the grapes hit optimal sugars and acids. The result: well-balanced and lush but not overly sweet.

Call today to reserve your spot for this wine dinner. Only $50/person, all-inclusive (non-refundable, due at time of reservation). 541.617.1102

www.VolcanoVineyards.com

Don’t pop your cork!

On Sunday, we took the boys up to Hood River to see Thomas the Tank Engine and thought we’d make a few days of it before we went to our summer hours in the Tasting Room (which start this Wednesday, by the way – noon to close daily, except Tuesdays which remain by appointment only). Our plan was to spend Monday and Tuesday visiting the Columbia Gorge wineries. There are some great ones: Pheasant Valley, Syncline, Cathedral Ridge, and the Pines to name but a few. And I was going to blog about it here. However, after settling into our hotel room, the boys were CRAZY and we ended up deciding to leave (before we were asked to) and drove home instead. Two years old plus four years old plus ice cream plus confined hotel room equals nightmare.

So, instead, let’s talk about warm summer days and wine. Last week, a gal brought back a bottle of our syrah she had purchased the day before. The cork has been pushed out and I said, “Looks like you maybe left this in your car overnight…?” And she said, “Yeah, I did!” Well… wine is alive and very delicate and does not like temperature fluctuations. If it gets to hot, it will pop its cork…literally. This is also why we won’t ship wine during the summer.

We also suggest that once you open a bottle, try to finish it within the next 36 to 48 hours or so. While leaving a bottle un-gassed over night it a quick way to see if it has aging potential, any longer than that, it will start to oxidize. If you smell the wine and can detect aromas of rust or metal, the wine is dying. My parents are notorious for opening a bottle of wine, having a glass each, then putting the bottle back in the cupboard for a week or more. The next time they want a glass, the wine is undrinkable. Wine is, after all, fruit. And like most fruit, it won’t last forever once exposed to oxygen. So, drink up! (But, responsibly, of course).

We are tossing around the idea of doing half bottles, although it will probably have to wait until our production increases significantly. Doing a short run of labels for the smaller bottles would cost a fortune. Here’s to the day we can take advantage of economies of scale!

Oh, Those Tasting Fees

We had a woman in the Tasting Room who angrily threw three dollars at us, enraged that she had to pay to sample our wine. As she stomped out before getting the explanation, I thought maybe this would help clarify things:

#1: The history of complimentary tastes. Wineries initially used complimentary tastes to draw people out to their winery sites – generally miles and miles outside of cities, meaning folks had the winery as their primary destination – guests were “pre-screened,” as it were. The majority of wine regions that don’t need the allure of free wine to attract customers now charge tasting fees. Again, this is a way to ferret out folks with genuine interest in wine from folks looking for a free buzz. So, the first reason we charge for tastings is this: we are not out in a remote winery location. Our Tasting Room is in Downtown Bend.

#2: We are located in Downtown Bend. Our Tasting Room is surrounded by bars and restaurants. In fact, there is a bar right next door. If you had your business right next to a bar, would you give away any alcohol product for free? We get a lot of walk-by traffic, people who notice our signs and mosey on in to see what’s up. And like it or not, folks, most of the industry is heading towards tasting fees.

#3: The OLCC. Our Tasting Room is kid friendly – we welcome families with kids, have toys and chairs for kids, and advertise that fact. The OLCC (Oregon Liquor Control Commission) asks that in return we have certain controls in place to ensure minors are not served alcohol, and one of their requests was “no free tastes.” Do I even need to continue?

#4: We credit back the tasting fee towards the purchase of that bottle of wine. Seems more than fair to us – many wineries won’t even do that, reasoning that the taste is a product (and it is) and you paid to purchase that product.

#5: We almost ALWAYS have additional wines open that we will include in a flight at no extra charge. Unless a visitor is being a butthead, in which case they get nothing. Haha!

#6: We are not a multi-national corporation that can afford to spend millions of dollars promoting their product. The winery is me and Scott. We are very, very small. We didn’t have any money when we started and now we have even less. If someone wants cookie cutter, economies-of-scale, corporate Mega-Mart wine, then we are probably not for them anyway.

#7: Our Tasting Room is a bargain. In contrast to the Mega-Mart wines, the wines we pour in addition to ours are also premium and ultra-premium wines. See similar wines on a restaurant wine list and the glass price will hover close to $20. We are offering folks the opportunity to sample $25, $30 and even some $50 wines for only a few dollars.

#8: Tastes add up. If you are enjoying a full flight – even our shortest flight - you will end up consuming almost the equivalent of a full glass of wine.

Obtaining Closure

The Bend Bulletin did a feature story last fall on wine closures – cork vs synthetic vs screw top, etc. They did not consult us before publishing (shocking, I know) and that’s too bad because it is a topic Scott and I have spent many hours researching and discussing. Yes, we are loads of fun at dinner parties.

I bring this up again now because Wine Business Monthly – one of the leading US wine industry trade mags, has just published its 2007 closure survey report. And for the second year in a row, we are quoted. Once it publishes on line I’ll get the link to the article here. The thrust of the piece is that cork still dominates, but screw tops are gaining acceptance from consumers, and new closure types are on the horizon.

For our premiere vintages we opted for natural cork for a variety of reason – consumer perception being one, and lack of studies on long term aging with alternative closures, another. We chose a cork supplier (Rich Xiberta) who controls the full cycle of the cork closure production, from tree selection through final shipment to us. The high incidence of cork taint comes from corks produced without proper quality controls. For our less expensive red blend we chose a synthetic cork, primarily for cost reasons. The corks we use are $.55 each – the synthetic closures are a fraction of that. Since the red blend is meant to be consumed now, long term aging didn’t factor in our decision. For our less expensive wines, we will most likely switch to the screw top closures. Again, costs are an issue, and frankly the screw tops are easier for the consumer (no cork screw needed, a good thing if all your openers are now in the possession of airport security). I do admit the crack of a screw top on opening is not nearly as romantic as the pop of a cork.

We have also decided to switch to the glass stoppers for our top tier wines beginning with the 2006 vintage. These closures are stunning – keepsakes, almost. And recyclable! Sineann uses these closures on its reds - come in to the Tasting Room and we will be happy show you.