Thursday, August 30, 2007

The Dirt on Soil - Part 1

I was editing some of our marketing materials the other day, our fact sheet on our vineyard sources. And I was disgusted with myself because in it, I throw around soil types like Rouche silt loam and Selmac loam. And that is as far as I went. Now, unless my target market is limited to geologist enophiles, I couldn’t understand why in the world I threw that out there with no explanation. How many wine consumers know the benefits of Jory or Nekia soil? What makes Manita loam a great home for vines? Why is this info any consumer would want to know?

The wine industry as a whole has been striving to de-mystify and “un-elite” wine. Was I implying that only soil-educated consumers are worthy of our wine? Of course not. Simply, naming the soil is a quick, compact way to convey certain vineyard characteristics that can affect grape quality. And in my defense this document was meant for wine buyers, sommeliers and other industry folk. But, it’s also great info for anyone who wants to know more.

So, we’ll take a few blogs to check out the dirt on soil…

There are over 800 distinct classifications of soil in Oregon, and vineyards are currently planted on over 60 of them. (Campbell & Fry, Oregon Viticulture, 2003). There are three broad categories: clay, silt or sand. Other distinct characteristics of soils that influence vines include texture and structure, drainage, water and nutrient holding capacity, and pH.

Of these, texture and structure are the dominant qualities affecting vines, since they determine how deeply the roots will grow, and rate of drainage. Most of these influences are indirect. And many soil factors, such a how well it holds nutrients, can be managed in the vineyard through cover crops or even changing mowing schedules.

There has been some arguing lately in the wine industry press about that elusive concept of “terroir.” Many folks claim that when they drink wines from the great regions in France they can taste the minerals. But recent studies have found no scientific evidence that any detectable mineral compounds are present in the wines, and they suspect the taste differences between a grape grown in California versus one in France has more to do with climate than soil. (Wines & Vines covers the terroir issue quite frequently and thoroughly – I will post exactly in which issue these studies were featured once I track them down, although I believe it was late in 2006).

Next we’ll look at exactly what soil does influence, then we’ll take a closer look at some specific types of soil found in Oregon.

Saturday, August 11, 2007

Stress Case? Relax!

Well, we blew threw eight cases of Relax Riesling this week. I guess the price was right! And now it is gone, but fear not – it you want more, we will gladly order it for you, by the case, at $8 per bottle (as long as the distributor keeps the price the same).

Members of The Order of the Volcano should remember that we will always order wines we do not normally carry for you by the case from the distributors and only charge 10% over cost. AND we will deliver to you in Central Oregon. That’s quite a deal, with some great service on top of it!

But back to the Relax issue. We are no longer going to stock it since it doesn’t really fit with what we are doing in the Tasting Lounge. When we first opened, just over a year ago, we only had two wines released – our Merlot and our Syrah. So we carry wines from other small producers to round out our offerings. We now have four wines, and are finding that most folks who have come in this summer are pretty much only interested on our wines.

We will continue to carry other unique and boutique wines from artisan wineries – these will generally be wines no one else carries, since we buy directly from the producers who are usually friends of ours. Relax is a German wine from a HUGE producer. Ordering a few cases is no big deal, and we are happy to do it. All you have to do is ask!

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

Yer Outta Here!

I know our hours of operation have seemed inconsistent and non-committal in the past. Much of that has to do with our trying to find optimal hours of operation, coupled with the fact that we are a three person team, and two of us are trying to run the rest of the business plus raise our two and four year old boys. But now that the Tasting Lounge has been open for just over a year we fell like we are hitting the balance, so we decided to abandon the wishy-washy “noon to close” and firm up our hours. Going forward this summer we will be open at 11:30 daily, closing at 6 on Sunday and Monday and 8:30 Wednesday to Saturday. We will remain “by appointment only” on Tuesdays.

The closing times probably seem early to some. But, a few Friday nights ago I had to “refuse service” to two gentleman who came into the Tasting Lounge around 9:30. The first clue that things were amiss was when one of them threw money at me and said, “Just give me a bottle of some sh$t red wine,” to which I responded, “I’m sorry but we don’t have any sh$t red wine here.”

They then seated themselves in the front window and I sat next to one of them and explained to them that I was not comfortable serving them as they had obviously had a great deal to drink before coming here and that I was going to have to ask them to leave. And one fellow said, “Oh, well, don’t you speak so nicely! Aren’t you just soooo polite.” Perhaps they would have felt more comfortable if I had begun swearing and threatening them, but I get the feeling that no matter what I would have said or how I would have approached it, these guys were hoping to cause a scene.


Then they started on the whole, “We’re just working guys, trying to relax after a hard day,” and then made some vague accusations that if diners from Deep were to want some wine I would welcome them with open arms. As I continued to herd them out the door I explained that if some patrons from Deep came into that Tasting Room I would be more than happy to serve them unless they, too, were visibly intoxicated in which case I would also ask them to leave. Then came the “rich a$$h*les” comments as they continued down the street.

Ironically, those two guys probably have more money at their disposal than Scott and I do. We haven’t gotten a paycheck in almost two years and we’ve poured not only our hearts and souls into Volcano Vineyards, but all of our savings as well (not to mention mounds of debt). That particular day I started working at 5 a.m. and it was after 9:30 p.m. that I threw them out. This year Scott and I have had a total of five days off. So we don’t have a lot of patience for this attitude.

This is not the first time we have had some self-pitying, intoxicated individuals come into the Tasting Lounge. The common thread is that these incidents always happen after the sun goes down. So after discussing this most recent episode, Scott and I reminded ourselves that we are not a bar. This is the Tasting Lounge for our winery. We want folks to be able to join us for a glass of wine after work or before heading out to dinner and, most importantly, to be able to enjoy their time with us. Having us act as bouncers is not fun for anyone.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Show Me Something Different

We are back from St. Louis, travel weary and waaaay behind on things. But while we were there we checked out a few wineries in the Augusta, Missouri AVA, the first officially recognized appellation in the US. Missouri has a long tradition of winemaking and was the second largest producer in the country until prohibition. In fact, in 1873 a wine made from Missouri’s best known varietal, Norton, was chosen as the “Best Red Wine of All Nations” at an international competition in Vienna. Who knew wine competitions were a big thing even back then?

It was great to break out of the wine rut we’ve been in. They make no syrah, merlot, chardonnay or pinot noir or gris in Missouri. Here are some of their featured varietals:

Seyval Blanc: A French/American hybrid, this is a cold climate, early ripening grape with a high acidity that makes it a natural candidate for some residual sugar. The resulting wine is crisp and food friendly, a low-intensity wine that is great on those hot and humid afternoons the Mid-West is famous for.

Chardonnel: A cross between chardonnay and seyval blanc, it is a late-ripening, cold-climate hardy grape. All the chardonnels we tasted had gone through malolactic fermentation and had lots of oak time, so try to guess what I though of them….

Vidal Blanc: Floral and fruity, this is another high acidity wine that can take some residual sugar. I thought it consistently had richer fruit flavors and a bit more depth than the seyval blanc. We brought some of this home with us.

Norton: The king of Missouri red varietals, although Virginia is aggressively promoting this grape as well. Norton is thought to be the same grape as Cynthiana – the differences usually come from the wine’s style. Nortons are comparable to cab sauv, although much earthier with a notable spice and a definitely “grape-eee-ness” that is the typical sign a grape is native to North America (although they suspect Norton is most likely a hybrid). It is definitely a great red when you want something bold and different.

Chambourcin: Nouveau in style, this is a much lighter red, fruity and light. Another cold-hardy varietal that ripens late and thrives in humid conditions. This one has been confirmed a French/American hybrid, so you see, we can do great stuff with the French after all. We grabbed some blends of Norton and Chambourcin as souvenirs. Yum!

Off-the-Beaten-Path varietals are the next big thing in wines, folks, so jump right in and give these wines a try!

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Coming Attractions

Thanks to everyone who popped by the Tasting Lounge to try the 2005s and the finalists from Scott’s 2005 Lava Red Blend trials. We appreciate the feedback!

For the blend, votes were evenly split for the most part, although a slight edge went to the 75% merlot 25% syrah version, which is the one Scott ultimately decided to go with. The 2005 Lava Red Blend will be lighter on the oak than the 2004, each wine having spent only 16 months in 25% new French oak. I know you oak lovers will be disappointed, but we’re sure you’ll appreciate the true fruit you can taste when there is no oak in your way. Yum!

And, although we are sold out of the 2004 Merlot, we are probably going to hold off on releasing the 2005s until Wine by the River which is happening the first weekend in October this year, I believe. We were hoping the 2005 Merlot would be magically ready to go once the 2004 was gone, but it needs a few more months in the bottle to add a bit of refinement. Wines are like little kids – they change drastically during those first three years, then the development levels off a bit – we are going to hold the wines until their evolution has slowed down. In the meantime, for you die-hard Merlot lovers, we now have Zerba Cellars’ Merlot in the Tasting Room.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Menu for July 12 Winemaker's Dinner

First Course – Blue Cheese Stuffed Figs Wrapped in Proscuitto
Volcano Vineyards 2005 Viognier - Mendocino
Our favorite cheese and wine paring: viognier and blue cheese. The acids of the Viognier balance the creaminess of the cheese, the fruitiness of the wine complements the blue’s strong flavors.

Second Course – Tri-tip and Wild Mushroom Salad with a Red Wine Vinaigrette
Volcano Vineyards 2004 Red Blend – Rogue Valley

With 50% Merlot, 48% Syrah and 2% Viognier, this wine accents foods rich in Umami (the savory taste), like beef and mushrooms. The wine also has a richness from 24 months in American oak which balances out the tangy vinaigrette.

Third Course – Oven Roasted Kalua Pulled Pork
Volcano Vineyards Syrah 2004 - Rogue Valley
We just got the review back on our Syrah from Wine Press Northwest. They rated it “Outstanding!” which is their higest rating. Syrah traditionally pairs well with pork, thanks to its rich blueberry flavors. Since our Syrah is light on the oak, you oak lovers will feel that void filled from the Kalua flavors in the sauce.

Dessert – Poached Pear Custard Tart
Harris Bridge Vineyards Three Roses Dessert Wine – Willamette Valley
A perfect, light, summer dessert paired with this luscious rosé dessert wine from Harris Bridge. Have you ever had a rosé dessert wine before? Aren’t you curious??? Harris Bridge uses an Ice Wine method for their production, waiting until the grapes hit optimal sugars and acids. The result: well-balanced and lush but not overly sweet.

Call today to reserve your spot for this wine dinner. Only $50/person, all-inclusive (non-refundable, due at time of reservation). 541.617.1102

www.VolcanoVineyards.com

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Don’t pop your cork!

On Sunday, we took the boys up to Hood River to see Thomas the Tank Engine and thought we’d make a few days of it before we went to our summer hours in the Tasting Room (which start this Wednesday, by the way – noon to close daily, except Tuesdays which remain by appointment only). Our plan was to spend Monday and Tuesday visiting the Columbia Gorge wineries. There are some great ones: Pheasant Valley, Syncline, Cathedral Ridge, and the Pines to name but a few. And I was going to blog about it here. However, after settling into our hotel room, the boys were CRAZY and we ended up deciding to leave (before we were asked to) and drove home instead. Two years old plus four years old plus ice cream plus confined hotel room equals nightmare.

So, instead, let’s talk about warm summer days and wine. Last week, a gal brought back a bottle of our syrah she had purchased the day before. The cork has been pushed out and I said, “Looks like you maybe left this in your car overnight…?” And she said, “Yeah, I did!” Well… wine is alive and very delicate and does not like temperature fluctuations. If it gets to hot, it will pop its cork…literally. This is also why we won’t ship wine during the summer.

We also suggest that once you open a bottle, try to finish it within the next 36 to 48 hours or so. While leaving a bottle un-gassed over night it a quick way to see if it has aging potential, any longer than that, it will start to oxidize. If you smell the wine and can detect aromas of rust or metal, the wine is dying. My parents are notorious for opening a bottle of wine, having a glass each, then putting the bottle back in the cupboard for a week or more. The next time they want a glass, the wine is undrinkable. Wine is, after all, fruit. And like most fruit, it won’t last forever once exposed to oxygen. So, drink up! (But, responsibly, of course).


We are tossing around the idea of doing half bottles, although it will probably have to wait until our production increases significantly. Doing a short run of labels for the smaller bottles would cost a fortune. Here’s to the day we can take advantage of economies of scale!