The Newport Seafood and Drunk, eerrr, I mean, Wine Festival

Wine is all about aromas. Scents, fragrance, and bouquet are of primary importance. If nothing else, this week has been a week of varied smells.

We arrived in Newport early last week and learned a little something on the journey. Our youngest son is indeed susceptible to car sickness: last year’s vomiting incident was no fluke. But while last time he threw up after we got out of the car, this year it happened right there in the backseat. All over his Spiderman suit, his booster seat, the floor. Mmmmmm mmmmm good. Then we get to the house to find that a short in the electrical box caused the electricity to have gone out days earlier. And all the crab bait in the freezer was no longer frozen. Or fresh. So while Scott was cleaning out the minivan (and really, were they not designed with kiddo’s eliminations in mind?) I was suppressing my gag reflex to clean out the rotting fish. And despite three pounds of baking soda there is still a whisper, the merest hint of brininess in the air when we open the freezer. Ah. The sea.

Many, many winery people warned us that the Newport Seafood and Wine Festival is a crazy booze-fest of drunk twenty-somethings (and I know what you are thinking – what in the world is wrong with that???). But I’d have to say that out of the three days of the festival that only held true for Saturday, which was a spectacle indeed. Folks dress up in costumes, everyone screams when someone breaks a glass (and inevitably people start breaking glasses on purpose, and are quickly shown the door). I think its boozy rep is a bit overblown. While lots of places were complaining their sales were down 50% from last year, we felt the weekend was a great success – we’d never been here before so anything over breaking even was a bonus. Our 2006 Merlot won Gold here at Newport and we sold out of it and the 2005 Bordeaux Blend quickly. This was the perfect place for our Magmita Sangria.

The Newport Chamber of Commerce, who hosts the event, and the OLCC are of course well aware of the "festiveness" of this festival and they have set very strict guidelines for what we can and cannot do. Taste and glass pours we being closely monitored, no open bottles were to leave tasting areas, and the place was crawling with police. If a winery were to violate the OLCC regulations, hefty fines – and I am talking thousands of dollars – were levied. So of course there is the a-hole who comes up to us as things were winding down on Saturday and says that he "would have bought a case” except he felt “gyped” on his glass pour, so he wasn’t going to buy anything. Did he say anything at the time he got his glass? Of course not. Was he actually planning on buying a case? I seriously doubt it. What a bunch of BS. Like we are supposed to risk a hefty fine so he can get a quicker buzz? I don’t think so. But these few festival buttheads make for great stories later.

As we usually find at these events, most folks are so friendly, they love wine and are interested mostly having fun while trying great wines and yummy food. And a remarkable number of people were over for the weekend from Bend and had never heard of us. These events are a great excuse to get spend a long weekend away doing the wino and foodie thing on a budget. We’ll be at Sip in McMinnville the weekend of March 13, but we won’t be at Astoria, as it is right after Pebble Beach Food & Wine – that one, not so much for the budget conscious, but if you have the means, I highly suggest checking it out. If you go, be sure to look for me – I’ll be the one chatting up Eric Ripert. Or trying to, anyway.

Blah Blah Blog

My first blog for BendNights.com is now live. To read it, and other edgy Bend bloggy stuff, check out: http://bendnights.com/blog/category/from-the-vine/

I can't imagine having enough to say to do this blog and the BendNights blog, but I'll give it a shot.

So, how 'bout this weather we've been having?

All righty, a quick update on us. We are looking for a bigger Tasting Lounge space Downtown, and are hoping to find someone to sublease the Brooks Street spot. I am happy to say we’ve outgrown that location, and want to start doing more events in the Tasting Lounge, like wine dinners and technical tastings. We are still also working on getting a production facility up and running here in Bend by this summer – gotta get that Magmita Sangria bottled!

We started looking for investors for the Magmita Sangria and the Magna Wines last summer, but put everything on hold once it became clear the economy was tanking. I don't think we had a really clear picture of what our next step was going to be - Scott was thinking we might have to move to southern Oregon, I wanted to stay in Bend, were we going to use our current winery facility for the second labels or build our own and if so, how tricked out would it be... many, many uncertainties. But we seem to have narrowed our focus and as long as I can get Scott to stop coming up with new ideas ("Hey, let's do a whole line of frozen chicken called Lava Clucks" - it's maddening - somthing new every day) I will have our new business plan done by early March. It is all becoming clear to me now.

Double Double Gold

First blog of 2009 and I have good news. The results of the Wine Press Northwest Platinum Judging are out and we got TWO DOUBLE GOLD MEDALS: one for the Lava Red, and one for the 2006 Lakeside/Serenade Syrah. The ’05 Syrah got just plain old Gold, same with the ’06 Merlot.

The Platinum Judging is an invitation-only competition for Pacific Northwest wines. To qualify, wines must have won a gold medal or better in a major national or international wine competition during the previous year. To earn a DOUBLE GOLD, all the judges must agree that the wine is a gold medalist. To get a roomful of varied palates to agree on something like that is quite a feat.(Don’t you love that visual? A room of palates – it reminds me of that weird circus troupe that used to be on Northern Exposure every once in a while. Their ring leader was the guy who plays Mr. Noodle on Sesame Street and he was in love with Marilyn. Ah… I loved Northern Exposure!).

We will be taking it easy the rest of January, filling out our year end reports to states we ship to, compiling our OLCC Privilege Tax statement, pulling together our 2008 financials – all that fun stuff. We’ve cut back the tasting room to four days a week, and will try to catch our breath. Scott is working with Doug Hough, our designer, on the labels for 2007 and finalizing the designs for the Magmita and Magna lines. Things pick up in February with the Newport Seafood and Wine Festival the weekend of the 20th. And we are hoping to pull together a wine dinner this winter sometime – stay tuned!

Kissing 2008 Good-Bye

In our December newsletter, I hit a nerve – I have never gotten so many comments on a newsletter before, and there was one particular line that seemed to resonate with people, and in case you missed it, here it is:

Scott and I have been on the precipice of financial ruin for the last 3 three year. Welcome to our world.

We were flooded with folks dropping into the Tasting Lounge to commiserate. Those moments were the highlight of this holiday season.

But I am not sure if it is easier or more difficult to maintain a positive attitude now that everyone else is in our boat. The emotional roller coaster of owning our own business has gone from highs and lows oscillating month to month to a daily ride. One hour we are on top of the world; the next, things seems bleak. We strive to maintain perspective, focus on the big picture, be thankful for what we have, live in The Now, all of that. Lately, it has become our mantra. Great on a macro level.

But let’s get real. On a micro level, the daily stress is suffocating. It is frustrating for us, as we are right in the range we predicted in our projections, falling between best case and worst case. Our sales are up almost 30% over last year. What is killing us right now? Debt servicing and cash flow.

So, yes, I confess, we do have high consumer debt – but allow me to defend myself. And frankly, it seems we do need to defend ourselves these days since the BIG BANKS are trying to deflect their questionable practices by blaming the little guy – we were apparently too greedy, too impatient, too materialistic. What about those of us who have been squeezed so tightly that we had to use credit cards to buy basic necessities? Groceries, gas, health care, etc.
Scott and I are absolutely, astoundingly in credit card debt. And no, we did not buy a boat or a flat screen TV, we used those credit cards for the business and for basic life stuff (and yes, I do mean groceries, health care, etc). Mr. Visa and Ms. MasterCard helped finance harvest one year and we are still paying it off. And we have been paying it, methodically, every month.

So why, then, did I just receive notice from THE BIG BANK that they would be increasing my interest rate? And they are a bank getting BILLIONS OF DOLLARS in bailout money from the government (read: the taxpayers). I guess they figure all us cardholders should pay, as word on the street is that they raised rates across the board – because they can.

All they’ve done now is increase my monthly minimum to them without allowing me to bring down my balance. And frankly, if it comes down to the choice between paying my credit card bill and buying food for my little boys, guess which one I am going to pick? What are they going to do, ding my credit rating? Knock yourselves out. I am a small business owner; my credit has been shot since we started this venture. My priorities are NOT about keeping big bank executives in their McMansions for the good of the American economy, but about keeping my family housed and healthy and keeping my business viable. Scott and I joke that we have almost a million dollars in “liquid assets” (the wine) that are anything but liquid. I wish there were a bank that would consider it as collateral, but while banks will foreclose on a house, they don’t want to be in the wine business (hmmm – maybe that should clue us in… haha).

What disgusts me even further is “they” can hide behind the twisted rationale that it is not personal, it’s “just business.” Why is it acceptable to excuse their practices as justifiable because it improves their “bottom line?”

And for that matter, why oh why are the 49ers wasting away the talents of Michael Robinson??? Next season, try the guy at quarterback!!!

Five great things that happened this year (we try to do this every night with the boys – it is very fun and a great way to get them to remember the good stuff).

1. No more diapers at Chez Ratcliff! And yes, that includes Scott. haha
2. My brother finally got his liver transplant. He is still in the hospital. His donor was a fellow who is in his church. That someone would risk their life is such a deliberate, contemplated way renews my faith in the human race.
3. I got my faith back. And by that, I mean faith in Volcano Vineyards. At times this year, I was seriously doubting what we had gotten ourselves into and struggling with not knowing where the path was leading. I am still not sure, but I am now okay with not being sure. Everything in my life has turned out fine so far, especially when things didn’t go exactly as I wanted them to. I expect this, ultimately, to be the same.
4. Scott and I saw The Police. I love, love, love Stewart Copeland. The best part is that we had two more nutso Stuart Copeland fans right in front of us and watching them be as excited as kids on Christmas morning made it that much more fun for me. And for anyone getting a bit judgee-wudgee on me, let me clarify that the concert was a complete surprise to me which Scott arranged on his own, paying for it by selling some of his most prized possessions, we brought our own food and after the show, we slept in our car. For the record, I love Miles Copeland, too. The man is a genius and I try to model our marketing and PR by his example. Yes, that will take some explaining and I will do so in another blog.
5. Our 2005 Syrah won Best of Show at the National Women’s Wine Competition. The day we found out we had won was a very good day.

Looking ahead, we have great plans for 2009, exciting products to launch, great ideas, lots of hope and anticipation. I try to see the fun in navigating this challenging situation, how I can outsmart the circumstances. A great exercise in creativity, if nothing else.

When I was mulling over 2008 a few weeks ago, a friend asked why I couldn’t ‘start fresh’ right then and there, that very day (which was early December), why wait until New Year’s Day? Well, I see life as a process: change rarely happens in one day, so in effect, we are starting our new phase today and yesterday and next week. But my brain likes categories, it likes a start and a finish, it likes wholeness. If I can asses 2008 as a unit, put in a box, seal it up and stick it on the shelf, you bet I’ll do it. It’s a ritual, a sense of closure, a cleansing. Then I can glance back at it when I need to, but the dwelling in it is over. Venting is part of that as well. Thanks for reading my vent.

Quick 2008 Harvest Update

We harvested Fortmiller Vineyard last Thursday, the 30th, our latest harvest yet. The grapes, as expected, looked stellar.

For the Lakeside Vineyard Syrah grapes, Scott is trying something new this year – we harvested 7 tons, and fermented two of those tons whole cluster, meaning the stems were still attached. Because of the freeze, the stems were brown and dry, and should add a soft tannin overtone we haven’t had in our syrahs in the past.

Mother Nature and Mr. Freeze Do a Number on the Grapes

Wineries are an extension of farming, and therefore are subject to the whims of Mother Nature. For the Willamette Valley and southern Oregon, harvest 2007 will be remembered for the rainstorms that rolled through, slowing end of season ripening and diluting the grapes. In 2008 we faced the cold – parts of the Rogue and Applegate Valleys were hit with hard freezes (temps in the 20s) this past weekend, mid-harvest for many. It was only supposed to hit the mid 30s. That Mother Nature, she’s a sneaky gal.

What do freezing temperatures do to wine grapes? It is not as bleak as it sounds. The biggest impact is that it kills the vines’ canopy (the leaves) – so no pretty fall colors, just dead, black leaves. This halts photosynthesis immediately, meaning the vines no longer convert the sun, water and ground nutrients to sugar – the grapes are essentially frozen in their development. No more ripening. This is especially difficult when dealing with later ripening grape varietals like Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc, which in 2008 had probably 2 or 3 more weeks to go before being ready for harvest. Planting those varietals in areas susceptible to early frosts is risky – but when the weather cooperates, the results are worth it – complex wines that benefitted from cooler temperatures with minimal heat spikes. Risk tastes good.

Southern Oregon is loaded with micro-climates: different vineyard sites were hit with frost in varying degrees. Lakeside Vineyard in Talent looks like a set for a Halloween movie, with creepy black vines sagging and crackling. Luckily for us, the Syrah had hit sugar and acid number within our range prior to the freeze. In fact, the numbers are almost identical to 2005, and that vintage turned out okay (Best of Show at the National Women’s Wine Competition, “Outstanding” from Wine Press Northwest, and an astounding 97 points from AlaWine, etc, etc, etc). We let the grapes hang on the vines for five days following the freeze to allow a bit of dehydration to occur – this concentrates the fruit flavors.

Fortmiller Vineyard is also in Talent, but it is about 500 feet higher than Lakeside, which usually protects it from frost. The vineyard is bowl shaped, with a lake in the middle. We all know that heat rises – and conversely, cold falls. The chilly air settled over the lake, and only the handful of vines ringing the lake were damaged. Warmer air moved back in and ripening should continue for the next ten days to two weeks. The vineyard’s bowl shape also helps retain heat, so even after the sun has passed by, the residual warmth remains.

And in a mere two years – or more – we’ll have the results from harvest 2008. I can hardly wait!

Latest Reviews

We have reviews of our wines in the newest issues of both Oregon Wine Press and Wine Press Northwest.

Lava Red Blend NV: “Excellent. It opens with aromas of strawberry pie, vanilla and cedar, followed by flavors of black cherries and juicy berries. It’s a big wine that should pair well with a hearty meal.” Wine Press Northwest, Fall 2008

For its October issue, Oregon Wine Press did a review of Oregon red blends. They evaluated submissions “using a single-blind method and a 20-point ranking system for appearance, aroma, taste, balance and finish.” They noted that “the overall quality level of the wines in this month’s category was excellent. So much so that it was necessary to double-blind a dozen wines… to arrive at the final six.”

Two of our wines made the list.

2005 Volcano Vineyards Rogue Valley Bordeaux Blend: “Since this wine is 93% Merlot, it could rightfully carry that designation on the label. But a judicious touch of Cabernet Franc makes up the remaining 7 percent, qualifying it as a blend. Whatever its varietal composition, the end result bears a marked resemblance to the classic Bordeaux appellation of St. Emilion. Ripe black currant, dry earthiness and tasty oak with hints of butterscotch engage the palate throughout.”

NV Volcano Vineyards Rogue Valley Lava Red: “Given such a large selection of excellent red blends in this tasting, it’s surprising that one winery would have two wines that rose to the top. But, after the scores were in, the discussions concluded, the winners determined and the bottles unmasked, that’s how it turned out. The little winery from bend has crafted a big, bold winner from the unlikely marriage of Merlot (75%), Syrah (23%) and Viognier (2%). Structured tannins complement black cherry, currant, cola and oak. Could that tiny touch of Rhone white be responsible for a finish that lingers long?”